Safari Photography Camera Settings That Work

Wildlife does not wait for you to find the right menu. The best safari photographers set up their cameras before the action and adjust only one or two things in the moment.

These starting points work for most mirrorless and DSLR cameras. Practice them at home on birds, pets or local wildlife before you travel, so they become second nature in the vehicle.

Start with shutter speed

Blurry wildlife photos are usually caused by a shutter speed that is too slow, not by a bad lens. Long telephoto lenses magnify every small movement of your hands and the vehicle.

Many photographers use shutter priority or manual mode with auto ISO, so they control shutter speed directly.

• Resting animals: around 1/500 sec
• Walking animals: around 1/1000 sec
• Running animals or birds in flight: 1/2000 sec or faster
• Panning shots for motion blur: experiment around 1/30 to 1/60 sec

Aperture and ISO

With a zoom lens, shooting at or near the widest aperture lets in the most light and gives a softly blurred background that makes an animal stand out. Stop down a little, to around f/8, when photographing groups so more animals are sharp.

Do not fear high ISO. Modern cameras handle noise well, and a slightly grainy but sharp photo is better than a clean but blurry one. Setting an auto ISO upper limit you are comfortable with keeps things manageable.

Autofocus and drive mode

Switch to continuous autofocus (AF-C or AI Servo) so the camera keeps tracking a moving subject. If your camera has animal or eye detection, turn it on; it works remarkably well on many species.

Use continuous high-speed drive mode and shoot short bursts. Many photographers also set up back-button focus, which separates focusing from the shutter button and makes it easier to follow action.

Choose a single focus point or a small zone when photographing animals in grass or behind branches, because wide-area autofocus often locks onto the foreground instead of the eye. Practice switching modes quickly, so you can move from a resting lion to a bird in flight without missing the moment.

Handling tricky light

Midday safari light is harsh, and bright skies can fool your meter. Watch for these common situations and use exposure compensation to correct them.

• Dark animals like buffalo: dial in negative compensation so blacks are not washed out
• White birds or bright sand: dial in positive compensation to avoid gray tones
• Backlit subjects at sunrise: expose for the sky and aim for silhouettes
• Check your histogram, as the screen can look brighter than reality

Steadying the camera in a vehicle

Safari vehicles are your tripod. A bean bag on the window frame or roof edge is the most useful accessory you can bring, and you can fill an empty bag with rice or beans after arrival. Ask your guide to switch off the engine for shots, and avoid shooting while others in the vehicle are moving around.

Finally, think about the best light. Early morning and late afternoon give warm, soft tones and long shadows, and animals are often most active then. Midday is a good time to review images, back up cards and charge batteries at the lodge.